Showing posts with label Fabric Structure. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fabric Structure. Show all posts
13 December 2012

Plain Weave | Characteristics of Plain Weave | Principle of Plain Weave

The plain weave is variously known as “calico” or “tabby” weave. It is the simplest of all weaves having a repeat size of 2. The range of application of this weave is wide.
Plain weave
Characteristics of Plain Weave
The plain weave has the following characteristics :
  1. It has the maximum number of binding points
  2. The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.
  3. The thread density is limited
  4. Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited. 
  5. It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other simple combination of threads, excepting that of “gauze”or “cross weaving”.
Principle of Plain Weave:
The principle involved in the construction of plain cloth is the interlacement of any two continuous threads either warp or weft in an exactly contrary manner to each other, with every thread in each series passing alternately under and over consecutive threads of other series interlaces uniformly throughout the fabric. By this plan of interlacement, every thread in each series interlaces with every thread in the other series to the maximum extent, thereby producing a comparatively firm and strong texture of cloth. A complete unit of the plain weave occupies only two warp threads and two picks of weft , which is the design for that weave?

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8 September 2012

Basic Woven Fabric Structure | Plain Weave | Twill Weave | Satin/sateen Weave

Fabric Structure:
The form of interlacing of warp and weft yarns can be divided basically into three categories- plain, twill and satin/sateen weave. These three kinds of forms are called basic weaves.

1. Plain Weave:
The simplest of all weaves is the plain weave. Each filling yarn passes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn passes alternately over and under each filling yarn. Some examples of plain-weave fabric are crepe, taffeta, organdy, and muslin. The plain weave may also have variations, which include the following:
Warp rib weave- Warp rib weaves may be described as plain weave in which two or more picks are inserted in the same shed. Warp rib weaves are normally used in warp faced constructions. The warp cover factor and the warp crimp are substantially higher than the weft cover factor and the weft crimp. The intention is to produce fabrics with prominent weft-way rib formed by the crowns of the warp threads.
Weft rib weave- Weft rib may be described as plain weave in which two or more ends weave together as one. It is difficult to achieve very high weft cover factors in weft faced plain-weave cloths. By using two finer ends weaving as one, it becomes possible to achieve higher weft cover factor. Such cloths are expensive to weave and not very common.
Basket, matt or hopsack weave- In matt, basket or hopsack weaves two or more ends and two or more picks weave as one. The simplest and commonest of these weave is 2/2 matt. (Refer to Annex 2 for weave diagrams)

2. Twill Weave:
A weave that repeats on 3 or more ends and picks & produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric. A twill weave is characterized by diagonal rib (twill lines) on the face of the fabric. These twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but displacing the interlacing points of each end by one pick relative to that of the previous end. In twill weave line moves sinistrally (Right - Left, Z twill) and dextrally (Left - Right, S twill). Common derivatives of twill weave are as follows:
Zigzag weave- If the direction of the diagonal in a twill fabric is reversed periodically across the width, a zigzag effect is produced. Zigzag weave is achieved by simply combining two S and Z twill weaves of equal repeat.
Diamond weave- Diamond weaves are achieved by combining two symmetrical zigzag weaves of equal repeat. Diamond designs are vertically and horizontally symmetrical.
Herringbone weave- In Herringbone weave also the twill direction is reversed periodically like zigzag weave but at the point of reversal the order of interlacement is also reversed and then twill line commence as usual.
Diaper weave- Diaper weaves are produced when we combine two Herringbone designs. Diaper designs are diagonally symmetrical.

3. Satin/sateen Weave: 
The satin weave is characterized by floating yarns used to produce a high lustre on one side of a fabric. Warp yarns of low twist float or pass over four or more filling yarns. The low twist and the floating of the warp yarns, together with the fiber content, give a high degree of light reflection. Weights of satin fabrics range from chiffon satin to heavy duchesse satin. The sateen weave is similar to a satin construction except that in the sateen weave, the filling yarns float and are visible on the surface of fabric. Examples: cotton sateen, and damask. 

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1 September 2012

Some Important Fabric Structure and Design Names

Some rib design name:

Pattern structure with one needle type:
  1. Half Milano .
  2. Alternating .
  3. Milano Rib .
  4. Rib ripple .
  5. Half cardigan .
  6. Cardigan .
  7. Double Half cardigan .
  8. Half cardigan Double – sided .
  9. Rippled cardigan .
Pattern structure with one needle type:
  1. Cross – miss 1X1 .
  2. Lapique .
  3. 1X1 longitudinal tuck stripes .
  4. Plain pique .
  5. Double 1X1 cross – tuck .
  6. Swiss double pique .
  7. French double pique .
Some interlock design name:
  1. Belgian double pique .
  2. Flmesh double pique .
  3. Dutch double pique .
  4. Mock lace .
  5. Racked cardigan .
  6. Thermal
  7. Thermal 3F8
  8. Filet.
    Double pique fabric
  9. Interlock cross tubular .
  10. Interlock cross – miss .
  11. Interlock tubular
  12. Interlock half milano.
  13. Interlock piqutte.
  14. Interlock modified.
  15. Interlock double tuck .
  16. Interlock Rodier.
  17. Interlock cross – relief .
  18. Interlock half cardigan .
  19. Interlock pique .
  20. Pin tuck
  21. Interlock double face.
  22. Interlock tuck double face .
Pattern structures with four needles type:
  1. Quintuple 3X1 cross – tuck .
  2. 3X1 cross – tuck.
Specialty Structure :
  1. 1:1 fleece .
  2. 3:1 fleece .
  3. 2:2 fleece
  4. Double fleece .
  5. Three thread fleece 3:1 .
  6. Interlock fleecy .
Jacquard Structures:
  1. Color jacquards.
  2. Tuck jacquards.
  3. Lock jacquards.
  4. Transfer jacquard .
Color jacquard:
  • Single gersey two –color jacquard .
  • Single gersey three –color jacquard .
  • Single gersey two – color jacquard with binding-in of floating yarns.
  • Two color rib jacquard with horizontal striper backing .
  • Three color rib jacquard with horizontal striper backing .
  • Four color rib jacquard with horizontal striper backing . 
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8 August 2012

Basic Woven Structure | Classification of Basic Woven Structures

The form of interlacing of warp and weft yarns can be divided basically into three categories- plain, twill and satin/sateen weave. These three kinds of forms are called basic weaves.

1. Plain Weave: 
The simplest of all weaves is the plain weave. Each filling yarn passes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn passes alternately over and under each filling yarn. Some examples of plain-weave fabric are crepe, taffeta, organdy, and muslin. The plain weave may also have variations, which include the following:

Warp rib weave- Warp rib weaves may be described as plain weave in which two or more picks are inserted in the same shed. Warp rib weaves are normally used in warp faced constructions. The warp cover factor and the warp crimp are substantially higher than the weft cover factor and the weft crimp. The intention is to produce fabrics with prominent weft-way rib formed by the crowns of the warp threads.
 
Weft rib weave- Weft rib may be described as plain weave in which two or more ends weave together as one. It is difficult to achieve very high weft cover factors in weft faced plain-weave cloths. By using two finer ends weaving as one, it becomes possible to achieve higher weft cover factor. Such cloths are expensive to weave and not very common.
 
Basket, matt or hopsack weave- In matt, basket or hopsack weaves two or more ends and two or more picks weave as one. The simplest and commonest of these weave is 2/2 matt.
(Refer to Annex 2 for weave diagrams)

2. Twill Weave: 
A weave that repeats on 3 or more ends and picks & produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric. A twill weave is characterized by diagonal rib (twill lines) on the face of the fabric. These twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but displacing the interlacing points of each end by one pick relative to that of the previous end. In twill weave line moves sinisterly (Right - Left, Z twill) and dextrally (Left - Right, S twill). Common derivatives of twill weave are as follows:
 
Zigzag Weave- If the direction of the diagonal in a twill fabric is reversed periodically across the width, a zigzag effect is produced. Zigzag weave is achieved by simply combining two S and Z twill weaves of equal repeat.

Diamond weave- Diamond weaves are achieved by combining two symmetrical zigzag weaves of equal repeat. Diamond designs are vertically and horizontally symmetrical.
 
Herringbone weave- In Herringbone weave also the twill direction is reversed periodically like zigzag weave but at the point of reversal the order of interlacement is also reversed and then twill line commence as usual.
 
Diaper weave- Diaper weaves are produced when we combine two Herringbone designs. Diaper designs are diagonally symmetrical. (Refer to Annex 2 for weave diagrams)

3. Satin/sateen Weave: 
The satin weave is characterized by floating yarns used to produce a high luster on one side of a fabric. Warp yarns of low twist float or pass over four or more filling yarns. The low twist and the floating of the warp yarns, together with the fiber content, give a high degree of light reflection. Weights of satin fabrics range from chiffon satin to heavy duchesse satin. The sateen weave is similar to a satin construction except that in the sateen weave, the filling yarns float and are visible on the surface of fabric. Examples: cotton sateen, and damask. 

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19 May 2012

Twill Weave | Characteristics of Twill Weaves | Classification of Twill Weave | End Uses of Twill Weaves

Twill Weave
Twill weaves are the weaves that find a wide range of application. They can be constructed in a variety of ways. The main feature of these weaves that distinguishes from other types is the presence of pronounced diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric.

Characteristics of Twill Weaves
The basic characteristics of twill weaves are :

(i) They form diagonal lines from one selvedge to another.
(ii) More ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.
(iii) Less binding points than plain cloth
(iv) Better cover than plain weave
(v) More cloth thickness and mass per unit area

Classification of Twill Weave
The twill weaves are produced in a wide variety of forms. They are however classified broadly into important categories, namely :

(i) Ordinary or continuous twills
(ii) Zig zag , pointed or wavy twills
(iii) Rearranged twills such as satin/sateen weaves and corkscrew weaves
(iv) Combination twills
(v) Broken twills
(vi) Figured and other related twill weaves

The above types of twills are further subclassified as:

(a) Warp face twills
(b) Weft face twills
(c) Warp and weft face twills

End Uses of Twill Weaves
Twill weaves find a wide range of application such as drill cloth, khakhi uniforms, denim cloth, blankets,shirtings, hangings and soft furnishings.

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4 February 2012

Ordinary Honey Comb | Brighton Honey Comb | End Uses of Honey Comb

The honey comb weaves derive their name from their partial resemblance to the hexagonal honey comb cells of wax in which bees store their honey. These weaves form ridges and hollows which give a cell like appearance to the textures. Both warp and weft threads float somewhat on both sides, which coupled with the rough structure, renders this class of fabric readily absorbent of moisture. The weaves are of two classes, namely,

(i) Ordinary honey comb or honey comb proper
(ii) Brighton honey comb

Ordinary Honey Comb

These weaves are characterized by the following features
(a) Cell like appearance with ridges and hollows
(b) Single line crossing a single line or double line crossing a double diagonal line
(c) More warp and weft floats
(d) Moisture absorbent due to floats
(e) Constructed with pointed drafts
(f) A reversible fabric having similar effect on both sides.

Brighton Honey Comb

These weaves are characterized by the following features :
(a) Non-reversible cloths in which face appears different from back side of the cloth
(b) Constructed on straight drafts only
(c) Repeat size is a multiple of 4
(d) Length of longest float is N/2 – 1, where N is the repeat size
(e) A single diagonal line crosses a double diagonal line
(f) Formation of 4 cells per repeat i.e., two large and two small cells (ordinary honey comb forms only one cell per repeat)
(g) The number of threads in a repeat must be a multiple of 4.

End Uses
The fabrics constructed from honey comb weaves have more thread floats on both sides and have a rough structure. This renders more absorption of moisture. The weaves are, therefore, suitable for towels and also in various forms for bed covers and quilts.

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7 January 2012

Analysis of woven fabric(Diamond)

Experiment name: Analysis of woven fabric(Diamond).
Object:
1.To sketch the structure of fabric.
2.To know about the raw material of fabric.
3.To know about different specifications of fabric.

Sample: 
 
Apparatus:
1. Counting glass,
2. Needle,
3. Beesleys balance,
4. Twist tester,
5. GSM cutter,
6. Graph paper.

Analysis:
1. Weave plan: In graph the gaps between the lines are considered according to X axis as weft threads and according to Y axis as warp threads. The up threads are indicated by filling up the gaps and down threads without filling up the gaps.

2. Drafting plan: According to British system drafting plan is drawn at the top of weave plan. Here pointed draft is used to draft the plan.

3. Lifting plan: The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan.

4. Face side and backside: The face and backside can be easily understood.

5. Direction of warp and weft: Direction of both warp and weft are indicated by arrow marks by the side of the sample.

6. Raw material: Both warp and weft yarns are cotton.

7. Thread density:
No. of reading
EPI
Average
PPI
Average
1
56
54
39
40
2
55
40
3
53
37
4
54
38
5
52
41

8. Yarn count:
No. of reading
Warp count
Average
Weft count
Average
1
18


20
7


9
2
19
10
3
21
9
4
20
8
5
22
11

9. Yarn twist:
No. of reading
Warp twist
Average
Weft twist
Average
1
3


4
3


5
2
5
6
3
4
4
4
3
5
5
6
6

10. Direction of twist: Both warp and weft yarns are ‘Z’ twisted.
 11. Design of fabric: The formula number of this fabric is .

12. GSM calculation: We take one square inch fabric sample and find its weight 0.1116 gm.
We know 1 inch = 2.54 cm i.e. 0.0254 m. So, 1 sq. inch = 0.02542 sq. m.
Now, 0.02542 sq. m sample wt. = 0.1116 gm.
1 sq. m sample wt. = 173 gm.
Therefore GSM of fabric is 267 gm/meter2.

13. Repeat size: The repeat size of this fabric is 18´18.

14. Type of loom: Tappet loom is used to produce this fabric.

End Use:  
This type of fabric is used for making towel, bedsheet, pillow cover, table cloth and so on.

Conclusion: 
Analysis of fabric structure is very essential to know about the fabric. Because it gives all kinds of information about the fabric that is needed to reproduce or to change structure or design of fabric. By this practical I learn how to analyse primarily a simple plain structure of woven fabric.  

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